Rough Guide to snap ons on heads
If I use a :
7f on the body I use a Zero or LOWER comb on the head
4f on the body, an A or lower on the head
A zero on the body a zero or LONGER on the head
Anything above a Zero, I use the corresponding comb or one comb LOWER on the heads.
This is all about BALANCE! If the balance is off, you need t adjust the comb length longer or shorter to fit the dog and the needs of the owner.
The picture to the left pretty much explains using arrows how to move the comb to get this look. Sometimes you have to adjust those lines, but this is the BASIC way I do my heads. I DO touch the face and head with the comb unless I am trying to add fullness in a face. Usually I am not trying to add fullness, so I simply choose my length and then start clipping.
I use different combs for different length bodies. I usually use the same length comb I used on the body for the heads and faces, but if the body is REALLY short (like a 7f or a 4f) I use a Zero comb to add some personality to the face. Too much hair left (like a B comb would leave) and you get a top heavy body that looks out of balance.
If you want to leave the underjaw longer, its easy enough to switch to a different comb. Shorter? EASY! Simply scissor it shorter after you get the head length set.
Now, you ARE going to have to go back with shears and cut in eyes, and neaten up the clipperwork, but as a general rule I can get a head done in 5 minutes (or less) using combs, whereas it might take me 10 or 15 with thinning shears.